PUERTO VALLARTA, Mexico – If you want to enjoy panoramic views of Paris, Seattle, or New York City, you can simply visit the Eiffel Tower, Seattle’s Space Needle, or the Empire State Building. Just wait in line, buy a ticket, take the elevator, and in a few moments, you’ll be soaring among the clouds. But in Puerto Vallarta, the most stunning view of the city awaits at La Cruz del Cerro – the Hill of the Cross. And unlike the crowded towers and confined elevators filled with other tourists, this adventure offers pure nature, open skies, and the fresh breeze on your face. No tickets, no lines. However, the only “price” you’ll pay is a bit of effort – sturdy legs for climbing, comfortable shoes with a good grip, and lots (yes, lots) of sweat.
Remember to bring water; it’s no joke. Without it, the heat and mineral loss could leave you feeling faint along the way. A visit to Puerto Vallarta wouldn’t be complete without making this climb. From the top, you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the city below, its red-tiled rooftops spread like brushstrokes on a canvas, and the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean stretching to the horizon. And if you squint hard enough and let your imagination wander, you might even glimpse the shores of distant Vietnam.
Once at the summit, standing next to the towering cross, even those who aren’t Christian may feel a sense of spiritual reverence, a connection to something greater – the Earth, the heavens, and all living things. The expansive, tranquil scenery feels almost otherworldly, and the sense of achievement swells within you. It’s hard not to shout, “WOW! OMG! HOLY MOLY!” – or even a few unprintable words that come to mind when excitement takes over.
The Journey Up
The adventure begins at El Malecón, the main square of Puerto Vallarta, located in the Romantic Zone. From there, find Calle Abasolo and head towards the mountains. The street signs can be a bit tricky to spot, as they’re often mounted on house walls at intersections – sometimes missing altogether. But don’t rush; take your time walking the cobblestone streets, as they can be slippery.
Puerto Vallarta has two main seasons – dry and rainy – but it usually only rains in the late afternoon or evening. No need to carry jackets, even for a nighttime walk, as the temperatures hover around 80-90°F year-round. If you’re young and fit, you can make it to the top in about 15-20 minutes. If you’re older, expect the climb to take around 30 minutes or more. The higher you climb, the more often you’ll need to stop to catch your breath and wipe the sweat from your brow. Some might take up to an hour, with plenty of breaks to massage aching knees and sip water sparingly, saving enough for the descent.
The path is challenging, with stone steps that switch unpredictably from one side of the trail to the other. The lack of directional signs can easily lead you astray, possibly straight into a local’s yard, greeted by barking dogs and scattering chickens. The steps are steep, and after just a few, you’ll feel the burn. Add to that the intense October sun and humidity, and the journey becomes a real test of endurance. Thankfully, sturdy iron handrails and occasional patches of shade from nearby trees provide brief moments of relief. Although the trail is relatively safe, a misplaced step could send you tumbling downhill – a reminder to tread carefully.
To keep spirits high during the climb, you might find yourself humming a tune like “Cùng nhau trèo lên quán dốc…” (“Together we climb the slope…”). Luckily, rest stops with stone benches are available for weary climbers to take a breather. And don’t forget your phone or camera – the murals and vibrant scenery along the way make for excellent photos to share on Facebook and rack up those “likes.”
At the top, you’ll reach the cross perched on a simple stone base. Below lies the shimmering Pacific, dotted with boats, while behind you, the lush mountains stretch endlessly. Looking down, you’ll spot the golden crown atop the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, rising above the surrounding rooftops. If you still have some energy, climb a few more steps to reach the Mirador de la Cruz viewpoint, where the view opens even wider, and the breeze carries your thoughts away under the vast, blue sky.
An Unexpected Encounter
Halfway up the climb, I paused to catch my breath when a group of cheerful schoolchildren in white shirts and dark pants came bounding down the hill. They weren’t just walking – they were skipping, laughing, and moving effortlessly without even touching the handrails. “Hola!” I greeted them. “Hola!” they chirped back in unison. I showed them a note with the words “La Cruz del Cerro,” and they nodded enthusiastically, pointing uphill to confirm I was on the right path.
One of the students, curious about me, asked in perfectly American-English accent where I was from. “California,” I replied. Instantly, they all exclaimed, “Wow! Wow!” – thrilled to meet someone from California who is not Caucasian, which what they expected.
I couldn’t help but wonder what was going through their minds. Maybe they thought, “Wow, this old man, so close to the end of his journey, still has the energy to make this climb.” Or perhaps they marveled at how someone with my background had found a home in California, a place so many of their countrymen dream of reaching despite the dangers of the journey. Either way, we exchanged smiles and farewells with a warm, mutual respect. With newfound determination, I continued my climb to the summit, where the wind howled and the view stretched beyond imagination.
Quick Facts about La Cruz del Cerro
- English Name: Hill of the Cross
- Structure: A simple cross made of two intersecting beams – no depiction of Christ
- Elevation: 6,471 feet (1,972 meters)
- Height from Base: 829 feet (253 meters)
- Trail Distance: 0.5 miles (804 meters)
- Total Steps: 333 stone or concrete steps
La Cruz del Cerro offers more than just a view; it provides a sense of accomplishment and serenity. Whether you climb it for the exercise, the view, or the spiritual experience, it will leave a lasting impression on your heart. Don’t miss this hidden gem the next time you’re in Puerto Vallarta.
-Đức Hà-
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